Friday, December 10, 2010

Happy One Year PCVersary!

...to the AZ7s! Around this same time last year, myself and a group of about 62 or 61 (or somewhere around that number) swore-in as Peace Corps Volunteers. After two months of language and technical trainings near Sumqayit, we finally became official Peace Corps Volunteers (during those two months we were considered "trainees"); the seventh group to do so in Azerbaijan.

Throwback! the YD (youth development) group during orientation:


I remember packing up my things the day after our ceremony and then going around to my clustermate's homes to say goodbye to them and their families, which we had spent time with throughout PST (Pre-Service Training). (BTW: We were divided into groups of 4 or 5 trainees who lived in host families near ours, and each of these groupings was your "cluster". We had our language classes with the other people in our cluster. I'm trying to do a better job of explaining myself since I realized those who aren't too familiar with PC probably have no idea what the f I'm talking about half the time, especially when I use weird ass lingo and acronyms like "PST". My bad!)

The day after I packed up all my crap, I hopped on a marshrutka with the 5 other PCV's who were going to sites near mine, Zaqatala. (btdubs: We refer to our geographic location as the "middle finger" of Azerbaijan. On a map our area looks like it is the middle finger of the hand-shaped country.) I remember sitting in my seat on the 6 hour trip north thinking, "Okay, this is it. Ahora si que va comenza e'ta vaina!" I was excited, I was nervous, I was anxious; all sorts of emotions/thoughts were running through my mind.

Fast forward a year later. I'm sitting in my room, updating my blog using my wireless internet, having a cup of çay. I look back at all of the things that have happened over the past year, all the projects, all the experiences, all the new foods I've tasted that I refused to even glance at when I was still in America, all the people I've met and had fascinating and wonderful conversations with---and I'm so grateful to be here, right now, having had all of these moments and knowing that I still have another year to look forward to.

Monday, December 6, 2010

Little things that make your day when you're living abroad

I'm out of it today. No se porque but I am. So anywho I went out to do a little shopping today (for foodstuffs including rice, oatmeal, greçka, eggs, marshmallows, etc.), taking my usual walk with some headphones on (and listening to some Alejandro Fernandez)...when I passed a woman carrying a child. My guess is the kid was between 10 and 14 months old, and, since it was a bit cold today, he was bundled up so that he looked like the kid from A Christmas Story (fyi: I can totally make that reference now because I finally saw the movie! After years of changing the channel away from TNT and that horrible 24-hours-of-A-Christmas-Story marathon they always give on Christmas Day, I finally succumbed and saw it. My review: pretty good.)

BUT I DIGRESS... what was I talking about? Oh yeah so I'm walking on the other side of the street from this woman and child and I look over and he's staring at me, and I can see the mother is telling him something (which I can't make out because I'm listening to my iPod). And so I give 'em a "SALAM!" (which I try to do to every female or child that looks/stares at me on the street; hey if you're gonna stare at least greet me!), and then the baby starts THROWING KISSES AT ME! It was one of the most adorable things I've ever seen, for reals. He put his tiny little hand up to his mouth and made a kissing noise and sent me the kiss with his hand! How cute is that?? It's just not possible to continue having a bad day when a baby is sending you air kisses.

So that happened, which was awesome. And then I went to the post office to say hi to the lady who works there, and she actually had mail for me! And not from the Peace Corps Office! JACKPOT! (I can count on one hand how many pieces of non-PC mail I've received in this country.) It was a letter from my sitey's mom! An actual handwritten letter! I read it on the walk back home and it was awesome. Letters are so cool. (If you are reading this Löki or Lydia, THANK YOU SO MUCH!)

So I finished the letter and was walking up my street. And I looked up at the mountains and noticed the snow on their peaks was a little orangey - sunset time! My walk home is east-ward, and so I turned around to see what the sky would look like when BAM! One of the most beautiful sunsets I've ever seen. There was a little bit of cloud cover, streaks at the horizon colored pink like cotton candy. It looked like a rosy vanilla sky. It was so pretty, as though the universe was telling me "Yo, Yessiquita, whattup? You see this sky right here? Yeah, that shit is beautiful, I know. This don't happen every day either, you better appreciate it fool!"

And just like that my day turned around for the better! All it took was a strangely affectionate baby, a letter from America, and a gorgeous sunset.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

XAŞ

A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of partaking in one of the most infamous (at least amongst PCV's) Azerbaijani traditions - eating xaş in the morning. What is xaş you ask? Wikipedia has a lengthier answer, but its basically a cow hoof and/or head soup. My host mom made it the other day, and it was quite a long process. Basically you take the hooves and head and boil it for hours (ours was boiling for pretty much the whole day before). I'm not sure what (if anything) was added to the soup in the cooking process, but basically the cartilage and little meat that is on the bones melts/detaches itself and gives the broth a very gelatinous consistency. You heat this up in the morning, the earlier the better, and eat it with bread. Usually there will be other things on the table that you can put into the broth to give it some flavor, my host mom had a garlicky-oil thing as well as some vinegary stuff. She served me a bowl and put a little of both of those additions before I could protest otherwise (if you know me you know how I feel about condiments/sauces/etc.!) (FYI: It is common here in Azerbaijan for men to eat xaş in the morning along with a few shots of vodka...some say it is to mask the taste.)

My bowl looked like this:


I'm not gonna lie and say it was the best meal I've ever had in Azerbaijan, but it really wasn't that bad. The broth ended up too vinegary for my taste (next time I'll forgo that part) but it wasn't too bad with bread. The best part was the bone/cartilage part though, it was pretty good! This is coming from someone who likes mondongo, which is exactly what it reminded me of. I even made a little sandwich out of the cartilage and a piece of bread, it was deeeeeelicious.

After my unique breakfast, my host mom explained to me all the benefits of eating xaş. Apparently it is great to eat if you have arthritis or when your joints hurt or basically when you have any kind of ailment. Something about eating cow feet & skull that is supposed to replenish the energy in your own joints. All around it was an awesome experience, and now I can check it off of my Azerbaijan bucket list!

Thursday, December 2, 2010

that's my STREET name son!

I look different from most Azerbaijanis, and so when I walk down the street I tend to get a lot of stares, odd looks, and my favorite: random words screamed at me. This isn't anything unusual, I'm pretty sure 95% of the PCV's here can attest to the experience of having "HELLO! WHAT'S YOUR NAME?" shouted at them at least a few times a day. Lucky for me, I don't look like what Azerbaijanis think Americans look like so I get called a whole bunch of other random shiznit, yay!

First a disclaimer: I don't particularly mind being shouted at on the street, especially because its usually just some curious kids trying to get my attention. I do however mind when people are blatantly rude and disrespectful. You can shout "Hello" however many times you want, but the second you switch to 'F*** You!' THERE'S A PROBLEM! Luckily this has only happened to me a handful of times.

But anyway on to the point of this post: people come up with funny stuff. Below a list of the most amusing words/phrases:

- INGILIS! INGILIS!
- What's your name? WHAT'S YOUR NAME? WHAT'S YOUR NAME?!?
- Ohhhh, qara qiz! (Translation: Oh, black girl!)
- Teacher Teacher!
- Hello Teacher, how is weather?
- Beyonce (pronounced Bee-yons)
- Löki
- pssst, çinsen? (Translation: psst, Are you Chinese?)
- I LOVE YOU!
- Barack Obama
- I go to the
- Afrika necədir? (Translation: How is Africa?)

and my personal favorite so far:
- WU-TANG!

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Dekabr Geldi!

December is here! So many good things will be happening this month that I'm very excited for! I like to make lists. BOOM, Listed:

1) One year anniversary of being a PC Volunteer (and one year until COS) on December 10

2) The new group of trainees, the AZ8's, will swear-in as volunteers and move out to their permanent sites!

3) Christmas = good food and good company

4) Yeni Il celebrations in Zaqatala are sure to be plentiful and awesome!

5) New Year's Eve = more good food and more good company

6) maybe the first snowfall of the season (inshallah)

7) the holidays usually make people feel happier

8) I get to listen to my Christmas playlist, which includes the following: Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas by Judy Garland; the Christmas Song by the Chipmunks; Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays by *NSYNC; This Christmas by Donny Hathaway; Holiday by Madonna; All I Want for Christmas is You by Mariah Carey; Fiesta de Pilito & No hay cama pa' tanta gente by El Gran Combo; Me Voy a Regalar by Marc Anthony; Salsa Pa' Tu Lechon & Esta Navidad by Johnny Ventura; Estas Navidades by Fernando Villalona; Dame La Mano Paloma by Aventura; Navidad Sin Ti by Marco Antonio Solis y los Bukis; Mi Burrito Sabanero by Los Villancicos.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Şükür anlıq bayramı

How do you translate 'Thanksgiving' into Azerbaijani? I've heard a few different translations, including Şükür Bayram (thanks holiday) and Şükür Vermək (literally means to give thanks). Şükür anlıq, according to the Google Translator means "thanks moment," and its the one my sitey has been using so that's what I'm going to call Thanksgiving.

So anyway I spent a nice Thanksgiving here in Zaqatala, at my sitemate's house in the village. Us Zaqatala folk were joined by a few other PCV's from regions nearby not only in honor of the holiday but also as an informal goodbye-dinner for my sitemate leaving Azerbaijan in the morning. Our extensive dinner consisted of a roasted turkey, garlic mashed potatoes, regular stuffing and cornbread stuffing, Georgian lobio, Thai pumpkin soup, nar (pomegranate), a turkey gravy-turned-mole, pumpkin pie, pecan pie, and a cherry & plum pie. (My pants definitely fit a little more snug after that meal.)


Last year I spent my Thanksgiving in Pre-Service Training; we had language classes in the morning and then in the afternoon went into Sumqayit with the rest of the YD group and celebrated with each other at a restaurant near the Dove statue. I still can't believe I've been in Peace Corps/Azerbaijan for over a year already, its crazy! In the spirit of the holiday, here are a few of the things that I am thankful for (in no particular order):

- my sitey, with whom I have shared many awesome (and some not-so-awesome) moments over the past year
- my fellow AZ7 YD's, especially those from my Taqiyev #6 cluster
- living in such a beautiful town in Azerbaijan
- having Azerbaijani friends with whom I can joke around
- the abundance of nar in this country
- kelem dolmasi
- fresh, just out of the oven bread, especially that made by my Nene in Taqiyev
- my awesome host families
- every other PCV in Azerbaijan with whom I've shared laughs/great times
- having internet in my house and therefore the ability to feel connected to my peeps at home even though I'm thousands of miles away
- my external hard drives, through which I can keep up with my tv shows and re-watch Justin Timberlake and Aventura concerts as often as I feel inclined
- text messaging
- American taxpayers who are supporting my being here in Azerbaijan
- living in a house with a washing machine
- çay
- xengel (all types)
- sunrises over the mountains, full moons lighting up my street at night, shooting stars, and all other celestial phenomena that is easier to see in the Zaqatala sky than it was in the NYC one

Monday, November 22, 2010

These Foolish Games

I'm a Youth Development volunteer, so I tend to play a lot of games. Conversation clubs are a million times better when the kids are actually engaged in the task, and nothing motivates people quite like the chance to win a competition to gain some arbitrary prize (usually just glory or pride). So here are some of the games that I have learned while here in Azerbaijan that are awesome to play... so share them with people!

Ninja: Learned this one my first week in-country from Sean, a fellow AZ7 YD, during our orientation. This is a great group game, especially when there are a lot of people. Everyone stands in a circle, and whoever is the leader of the group will start. Everyone must bow to each other and on the count of three must assume a ninja pose. The leader starts and in one move must try to hit someone else's hand with their hand. If he/she was successful, then the person who was hit is out. However if he/she missed, they must stay in this same position and it will be the next person's turn to move (the person to their right if going counterclockwise). You must hit the person above their wrist for them to be out, anywhere else and it doesn't count. It is important to remember that you are only allowed to move it is your turn, or if you are dodging someone's hit. It sounds complicated/confusing but once people get the hang of the game its pretty simple and can move quickly. Obvi the winner is the last person left standing.

POW!: This gem I learned a year later again during orientation, this time from an AZ8 YD named Jake (knowing all sorts of random games must be a prerequisite to being a youth development volunteer in Azerbaijan!). Everyone stands in a circle, with one person in the middle. This person's job is to point to random people in the circle. The person who is pointed at must duck down, and the two people on either side of this person must make a gun with their hands and scream POW! at each other. The slowest person to do this is out (i.e. if you don't duck quick enough and one of the people at your side POW you, you are out). The leader should pay attention as he/she is the one who will be making the executive decisions as to who POW-ed first, etc. Eventually it will be down to two people, and at this point they must stand back to back. The leader will tell them a secret word which when uttered in the middle of a random story by the leader, will be the trigger for the duel. When the two remaining players hear this word they must shoot each other, and whoever POW-ed first wins. This game is awesome, especially when you start varying your ammo (instead of making a regular gun sign, kneel and make a bazooka and POW your enemy that way!).

Wizards, Trolls, and Pixies: Learned this one from my sitey Löki, an AZ6 YD extendee, yesterday in our english convo club. Divide the group into two teams. Designate two ends of the field/room/whatever space you're in as 'safe havens' for each team. The point of the game is to capture all of the players from the opposing team. First each team must get together and decide which character they will be for the round, they can only pick one (i.e. If wizard is chosen, everyone on that team must be a wizard). After they decide which they will be they must line up in the middle of the space, about 2 meters apart or so, on either side of a line down the middle. There should be a referee/leader who is not playing the game. This person will stand on the sideline. On the count of three the two teams must take one leap towards each other and act out the character they have chosen. (Wizard = stand tall, extend your hands and wiggle your fingers. Troll = hunch over a little and make claws/growling noises. Pixie = crouch down and either make elf ears with your hands or whatever else you think a pixie would do.) Wizard beats troll, troll beats pixie, and pixie beats wizard. Whichever team chose the dominant character must try to grab someone from the other team and pull them to their safe haven. The losing team must try to run back to their safe haven before this happens. Whoever is captured automatically joins that team for the next round. If both teams chose the same character, nothing happens and you start over (go back to your safe haven with your team and decide on another character for the next round). You keep doing this over and over again, until eventually one of the teams fully absorbs the other team, thus winning.

Mangy Cats: I don't remember who I learned this one from, probably from an AZ6 volunteer. Materials needed: 8 little squares of paper for each person playing as well as a writing utensil. Everyone must number the pieces of paper 1 through 8. You will have 45 seconds to write a short phrase or sentence on the piece of paper labeled 1. Once the time is up you must pass your entire stack of papers to the person on your right. Now everyone will have 45 seconds to read the phrase/sentence, and on the paper labeled '2' draw a picture depicting the phrase/sentence. When the time is up, everyone must stop drawing and pass their stack of papers to the person to their right. Again in 45 seconds you must look at the picture and write a phrase or sentence describing the picture. You are not allowed to look at any other sheets of paper besides the one that was handed to you. For example, if I received a picture on paper #4, I must quickly look at it and write a phrase/sentence on paper #5, without looking at papers #1-3. When I pass this on to the next person, they must only look at my sentence on paper #5 and draw a picture on paper #6, without looking at papers #1-4. It sounds complicated but once you get started it goes by pretty smoothly. This is an especially good game to play in a beginner's english convo club because the students get to practice forming sentences and describing pictures.

Climbing Triangles: Another PC game, don't remember who I learned it from but it was most likely an AZ6 PCV. This is a great party game, perfect for big groups that can be divided into several teams. People play this with varying rules, I'm going to describe my favorite way of playing the game. So first you need a bunch of paper. Everyone playing must take 3-5 pieces of paper (depending on how long you want this game to last, more clues, more time), and write down a word/phrase/sentence on each piece of paper. These all get folded up, collected and thrown into a hat or bowl. Divide the group into teams whichever way you want (i.e. everyone in 2 teams or several teams with 3-4 people per team, etc). The game consists of three rounds, the first is a Catchphrase round, the second is a one-word catchphrase round, and the third is the charades round. Pick a team to go first. They will have 45 seconds to guess as many clues from the bowl as they can. One person picks a clue from the bowl, and tries to describe it to their teammates without saying any of the words in the clue. If the team guesses correctly, (I play very strict rules, the team must guess the clue EXACTLY the way it is written, even if there are grammatical errors), the next person on that team gets to pick a clue from the bowl and describe it, etc etc until time runs out. If the describer says a word from the clue by mistake, that round is over and the clue must be returned to the bowl. Once their 45 seconds are up, the next team gets to play. This 'catchphrase' round continues until there are no more clues in the bowl. You are not allowed to pass, so if you are stuck on a clue you just gotta stick with it and try to get someone to guess it. After this round, you tally up all the clues each team guessed correctly and write these down. Fold up all of the clues and put them back in the bowl. The second round will start exactly like the first except this time the describer is only allowed to say one word. For example, if the clue is "I'm bringing sexy back", the describer can say 'Justin' or 'Timberlake'. If the describer says a word on the clue, or says more than one word, they forfeit the rest of their time and play moves to the next team. Important to remember: saying "oh God!" or cursing count as words, and if you say them you are not allowed to then say another word. After this round is over, tally the clues again, fold them, put them back in the bowl and start the third round: charades. The describer is not allowed to talk at all and must act out the clue. After all the clues are done, tally up the score and whichever team guessed the most throughout all three rounds is the winner. One more important thing to remember when playing this game is that it is wise to pay attention even when it is not your team's turn to hear what they are guessing, since the clues get recycled for the following rounds. This is my favorite game to play with other PCV's. It gets hilarious, especially when people write clues like "Nike shoes are keep children happily payed."


I know this post was ridiculously long, my bad, I didn't realize how complicated it would be to explain these games in writing. But for reals, you should play these games, they're awesome.